I visited Falmouth for a shoulder-season staycation: The Port with a Purpose
A model of coastal success, Falmouth in Cornwall is regularly cited on ‘Best Places to Live’ lists and not so long ago was crowned as the ‘Best Coastal Community’ at the Great British High Street Awards. Curious to discover what makes this Cornish town such a popular place to be, and such a buoyant year-round destination, Sarah Harrington headed south for a shoulder-season staycation.
Arriving on a blustery, rain-lashed Friday afternoon, we were met by the charming ivy-clad façade of Merchants Manor hotel, a welcome sight that immediately promised comfort and joy in winter. The weather proved the perfect excuse to lean into the boutique hotel’s ‘a life lived well’ mantra, and stepping into our festive dressed weekend residence to the gentle chimes of Classic FM felt like an instant exhale.
Our base was Merchants Manor’s ‘The Lookout’, a two bedroom ‘residence’ retreat for grown- ups that is connected to the hotel, but at the same time, feels beautifully independent. The designer styling effortlessly blends rustic cabin charm with contemporary luxury. Local artwork adorns the walls, reclaimed marine furniture nods to Falmouth’s seafaring heritage, and rich wood panelling creates an inviting sense of calm. Floor-to-ceiling glass frontage floods the space with natural light and opens onto an impressive 22-metre glazed balcony, where views over Falmouth Bay shimmer through the trees. From your personal hot tub, you almost feel suspended in the treetops, accompanied by birdsong rather than traffic.
Thoughtful design details elevate the space further, soft recessed lighting, a striking monochrome geometric floor and a sleek kitchenette complete with washing machine make it equally well suited to short breaks or longer, self-catered stays. Safe to say, we immediately settled in.
Beach vibes and laid-back dining
That evening, we wandered the short stroll to Gylly Beach Café at the town’s iconic Gyllyngvase Beach, a laid-back seafront institution beloved by locals and visitors alike. I opted for the cauliflower steak with cashew and cauliflower purée and salsa verde, paired, naturally, with a crisp glass of Rattler Cyder. I am so glad I did as it was bursting with flavour.
Healeys Cyder Farm are the creators of Rattler, a drink enjoyed by none other than Prince William, and they acquired Gylly Beach Café in 2023. They have invested heavily into the space, upscaling the venue with an extensive covered raised terrace area. The venue feels confidently rooted in Cornish provenance while evolving into something more than just a beach café. The atmosphere was as relaxed as the rolling waves beyond the windows, and the menu delivered comforting, well-executed plates with ease. The service was very friendly and it felt like the type of place one could linger away hours at.
Creativity and Cornish character on the high street
Saturday began with spa bliss at Merchants Manor health club, a serene and indulgent start to the day, before a delicious full Cornish breakfast served with an extra dash of warm hospitality. Then we wandered into the cobbled streets of Falmouth’s eclectic high street, again an easy enough stroll from the hotel’s door. The town’s plethora of independent shops were bustling with eager shoppers.
Just a short walk along the high street reveals how diverse Falmouth’s business scene is. In terms of food and drink, South African, Caribbean, French, Spanish and Nepalese cuisines sit comfortably alongside artisan coffee shops, quirky tearooms and specialist bars - all delivered with unmistakable Falmouth flair. Beyond hospitality, the town centre doubles as a creative and commercial hub, home to digital design studios, marine renewables firms, superyacht manufacturers and gaming companies, a reminder that this is far from just a seasonal resort.
One highlight was a visit to Starglazers Café, a pottery-painting studio on Falmouth’s Old High Street that has become something of a creative anchor for the town. The much-loved space recently reopened under new ownership, with designer Lucie Watkins, formerly creative marketing director at Seasalt Cornwall, breathing colourful new life into the café. Her vision was clear: to create a brighter, bolder and more inclusive environment where creativity feels accessible to everyone, whether you arrive with artistic confidence or simply curiosity.
The result is a joyful, welcoming space filled with colour and warmth, where time slows almost instantly. Customers book a 90-minute session and choose from a wide range of pottery pieces - from mugs and plates to keepsakes and seasonal decorations, with all paints, glazing and firing included. Friendly staff are on hand to offer guidance, encouragement (and refreshments), making the experience super relaxed and sociable.
Beyond daytime, Starglazers has also expanded its offering with themed evenings and adults-only events, including relaxed late-night painting sessions where guests can enjoy a drink while they create. These events have quickly become popular with locals and visitors alike, adding a sociable, after-hours dimension to the café and reinforcing its role as a creative meeting place in the heart of town.
We settled in, painting a Christmas bauble by hand - a wholesome, mindful pause. It was the kind of simple pleasure that lingers long after the paintbrush is put down, and a reminder of why Falmouth’s creative spirit feels so genuine and alive.
Wine, warmth and small plates
Our weekend concluded at Kernowine, a cosy independent venue that is part wine bar, part shop and part wine school. From the moment we arrived, it felt like the kind of place locals return to repeatedly.
Run by WSET Diploma graduate Derek Crookes and his wife Natasha, Kernowine is driven by genuine passion and expertise rather than pretension. Alongside its welcoming bar, the venue hosts regular monthly tastings (relaxed, informative evenings designed to help customers explore new styles and regions), as well as a popular Black Card Club, offering wine lovers access to exclusive bottles, events and member-only perks throughout the year.
On the night we visited, the space hummed with friendly conversation and the soft clink of glasses. We shared a selection of small plates and a beautifully balanced cheese board, paired with a velvety Malbec that warmed from the first sip. Service was friendly, knowledgeable and refreshingly unshowy and guidance offered without a hint of wine snobbery, making it a comfortable, relaxed yet refined spot for seasoned enthusiasts and curious newcomers alike.
Port with a purpose
With more than 200 independent businesses packed into just three-square miles and around 750,000 visitors each year, Falmouth is clearly a proper working town, buoyed by enterprise, creativity and a strong sense of community. A proactive Town Team and a packed calendar of events help keep footfall and energy flowing throughout the entire year.
We stayed at Merchants Manor in the adults-only Lookout apartment. There is a minimum three-night stay for this accommodation. Find out more at www.merchantsmanor.com
Falmouth hosts an award-winning, year-round festival and events’ programme. Highlights include the International Sea Shanty Festival, one of Europe’s largest free maritime music festivals which attracts tens of thousands of visitors, alongside Falmouth Week sailing regatta, the Falmouth Oyster Festival, Falmouth Week and the Falmouth Book Festival.
In the shoulder season especially, Falmouth comes into its own. Quieter beaches, glowing shop windows, creative spaces, boutique B&Bs, stunning waterside hotels and welcoming restaurants and bars reveal a town that thrives beyond summer with purpose and character.
A port with a past, a present and a very promising future. It’s a Cornish port that well earns its ‘top of those lists’ status, and not to be missed.