Brimstone Hotel and Spa review: luxury Lake District retreat near Windermere

The tone was set with a single phone call. The lovely Sue from Brimstone Hotel and Spa rang a few days before our arrival to ask if we’d like the fire lit in our room for when we arrived. And with that thoughtful gesture, the magic of our stay had begun.

Brimstone is close to Lake Windermere in Cumbria’s Langdale Valley. Some might argue that in a part of the world this spectacular, your accommodation hardly matters. I’d counter that once you’ve spent a night here, you’d quickly change your mind.

The Langdale Estate is idyllic - ponds, paths and a thousand twinkling lights that bring the place to life at night. You really do feel far from the madding crowds, despite the fact the estate shares its space with a neighbouring hotel and some time-share lodges.

The exterior of Brimstone is a striking mix of slate, wood and glass. It nestles into its surroundings. The interior designers clearly knew exactly what they were doing, with a palette inspired by the fells and rustic materials softened by refined design. Think Kelly Hoppen on a particularly good day.

All 16 rooms at the hotel are the epitome of sumptuous comfort. No expense has been spared to create havens of calm and tranquillity. Having been shown various rooms on a short tour of the hotel, be assured that you can’t go wrong whichever you choose. We spent a night in a spacious Fireside Suite and it ranked instantly as one of most stunning rooms I’d ever stayed in at a spa hotel.

Natural light from the expansive patio windows, the glow of the real fire plus sophisticated mood lighting ensure the room is bathed in a soft, amber warmth. Walk in, exhale, unplug and settle into the kind of zen that stays with you long after you’ve left.

Focal points are the emperor bed and roll-top bath. The bathroom is another oversized area with a huge walk-in shower and luxurious products. There's a lounge plus a private balcony where you can drink in the landscape. And you’re spoilt with little extras including a raft of complimentary snacks and high-quality bubble bath (plus a rubber duck to keep you company!)

A few steps away is the Reading Room, where more goodies await - complimentary soft drinks, wines, beers and the most delicious scones and cakes, plus sandwiches at 5pm and a late-night cheese board if you get the munchies later on. They don’t want you to go hungry here, and you won't. Someone at Brimstone also had the genius idea of hiding little edible surprises in one or two of the trinket boxes found in the carpeted corridors.

If it wasn't for the allure of the spa and the beckoning landscape, I could easily have spent my entire time inside this fabulous hotel.

As a guest at Brimstone, you'll enjoy complimentary access to the spa which is laid out in a series of thermal zones, from heat rooms to steam experiences, each intended to soothe tired muscles and quiet the mind. A pool partly opens outwards, giving the sense of swimming in nature, all framed by the distant hills. Steam grottoes, various saunas, feature showers and endless relaxation spots - including dedicated chill-out areas - allow you to rest between sessions in warmth or coolness, depending on your preference.

I never got the chance to try one for myself but treatments here are another draw, with a selection of massages, facials and body therapies. Plus, there's a deli on site if all that lazing about has left you peckish.

Staffing standards at Brimstone are first class. Everyone is down to earth. I never met "phone call Sue" but Chris and Matthew were the perfect hosts. There’s a sense of being looked after without feeling over-managed.

There are a couple of options for food - Stoves, a large and buzzy restaurant on site, and Wainwrights' Inn, a popular pub just 10 minutes down the road. There's a Land Rover Discovery that can be booked should you need a lift back from the pub. As we got ready to eat at Stoves, a staff member knocked at the door bearing complimentary negroni cocktails - another welcome touch that helps Brimstone stand out.

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Food at Stoves is European fare, beautifully presented and tasty. The cod loin, with peas à la française, pancetta, rattle potatoes and shallots, gherkins and capers, was an accomplished dish - as was my melt-in-the-mouth braised beef short rib.

The starters and desserts were equally successful, especially the apple and blackberry crumble. Breakfast - a help-yourself buffet, although they were happy to make a bowl of porridge to order - is also served at Stoves.

All that culinary decadence must, at some point, be burned off. Turn right out of the main entrance and right again to start a wonderful walk alongside the River Brathay from Elterwater. It’s flat and picture-postcard scenic.

If you’re feeling slightly more energetic or perhaps ate one scone too many, head for Loughrigg Fell. It’s about an hour away on foot and largely uphill, but your reward is the most breathtaking views. From time to time we stopped, closed our eyes and just listened to the babble of nearby brooks.

Ambleside is only four miles away and well worth a visit. By now you won't be surprised to learn that the hotel even has its own bootroom, brimming the high quality walking boots and jackets in case you forgot your own.

In a region celebrated for its scenery, Brimstone Hotel and Spa proves that where you stay matters just as much as where you roam. Come for the fells, but don’t underestimate the power of a lit fire and a room you’ll never quite want to leave. Like us, you'll find yourself planning your return long before you've checked out.

• A one-night stay for two at Brimstone Hotel and Spa costs from £425 including breakfast, Reading Room treats, spa access and outdoor kit hire.