'I came to see the northern lights but left starry-eyed by the majestic beauty and love of outdoors life in Norway'
Soaking in the bubbling, blue warmth of an open-air jacuzzi, I gazed out across storm-tossed, grey seas swallowing the setting Arctic sun - a fleeting moment, but one which perfectly captured the joys and contrasts of exploring Norway’s stunning coastline aboard Hurtigruten’s Coastal Express.
Our ship the MS Nordlys was shuttling north towards the Arctic Circle and (hopefully) a glimpse of the Northern Lights on a serene expedition which has been dubbed ‘The World’s Most Beautiful Voyage’. I can’t say I have travelled wide enough to verify or dispute the claim but it certainly has a strong case to argue with breathtaking, ever-changing landscapes, from deep fjords and mountains to innumerable islands and charming fishing villages, showcasing Norway's dramatic natural beauty.
And yes - we did catch the aurora borealis. It wasn’t the complete night-sky-covering light spectacular you may conjure up in your minds from pictures and nature shows. But it was still a special moment to see pulses of pale green light forming in the distance before dancing across the heavens in banks and swirls of luminescence.
An authentic Norwegian experience
Cruising with Hurtigruten is an authentically Norwegian experience building on 130 years of heritage of providing essential links between isolated communities along the rugged coastline.
Over the years Hurtigruten - which translates as fast route - has expanded its fleet and operations to meet growing demand but has stuck to its soul. This is not a formal cruise line, this is small-ship sailing where the focus is on the experience of the Norwegian coast - and what an experience that is.
The Coastal Express covers 34 ports and 2,5000 miles over 12 days from Bergen in the south to Kirkenes just minutes from the Russian border in the north and back again. We joined for just the northern leg and throughout the landscapes were stunning. Travelling in early autumn we did miss out on the majestic winter wonderland of snow-capped hills and mountains but the beauty of the fjords and the innumerable islands means that no two views are the same - from towering peaks, to craggy outcrops to farmland pastures running down to the water’s edge.
From isolated living to the Arctic and Viking capitals
Dotted everywhere were isolated houses making you wonder how people survive such a scattered existence. For those craving more of a community, the picture-postcard Nordic towns and villages made up the bulk of our frequent calling-off points stops, many just brief respites to drop off people and goods (including some noisy berths in the middle of the night which took time adjusting to). But the main stops were in the major population centres - although Norwegian cities are far from densely populated conurbations from home.
Tromso was gorgeous with Norway's vibrant "Arctic Capital” - set on an island 350km north of the Arctic Circle - best viewed following a cable car ride up to the Utlikkspunt viewpoint. It is also home to the ‘Arctic cathedral with its spectacular stained glass window and a history steeped in exploration. Trondheim, known as Norway's Viking capital, was charming and colourful, with brightly painted wharf warehouses, cobblestone streets and cosy cafes overlooked by the Gothic Nidaros Cathedral.
Living the Frilutftsliv life
Wherever you set foot you did get a keen sense of Friluftsliv, the Norwegian concept of "open-air living" - a deep appreciation, integral to the country’s culture and identity, of simple outdoor activities as a fundamental part of life, not just a hobby
And that is captured by the many excursions available on a Hurtigruten cruise - with each stop offering a serious hike or outdoor activities such as kayaking, e-biking, rib rides, coastal walking and dog-sledding.
But while the tour is more about enjoying the outdoors rather than luxuriating on board you could fault nothing on the MS Nordlys (which translates as Northern Lights). Launched in 1994, this mid-sized vessel - with a capacity of 590 passengers split between 210 cabins and 19 suites - is designed to navigate Norway’s intricate fjords and coastal waters, providing an intimate and authentic journey.
The taste of Norway
There are four dining options with the main restaurant Torget leans heavily into the ‘Taste of Norway’ with sumptuous buffets and three-course meals with ingredients sourced from where you sail. We did treat ourselves to an evening of fine dining in the Kysten, enjoying the local delicacy of Norwegian King Crab, harvested by hand from the floor of the Barents Sea.
The explorer lounge and bar is the social hub of the ship with wide windows, comfy chairs and drinks (I fell in love with Bayer, a delicious ale brewed by the world’s northernmost brewery Mack) and onboard there is a small ‘fitness room’ and a sauna.
The crew were always warm and welcoming, the ship spotless and with a dress code based on comfort and practicality rather than showy, life on board was very relaxed.
Starry skies and starry eyed
It was indeed a beautiful experience from start to finish. And although I joined the cruise to see the northern lights I left it starry eyed for the wonders of Norway, its welcoming people and calming culture of outdoor living.
Duration: 12 days, 34 ports
Route: Bergen – Kirkenes – Bergen
Departure Dates:
2026: 8, 19, 30 October / 10, 21 November / 2, 13, 24 December
2027: 4, 15 January
Charter Flight Airports: London Gatwick, London Stansted, Manchester & Newcastle
Lead In Price: Prices start from £1,849pp, based on two people sharing a Polar Inside cabin onboard MS Kong Harald, departing on 21 November 2026. Price includes economy flights from Newcastle, full board dining, transfers and Wifi.
Northern Lights Promise: If the aurora doesn't occur within sight of the ship on your voyage of 11 days or more, Hurtigruten give you a 6- or 7-day voyage free of charge. Valid for departures between 20 Sep - 31 Mar.
How to book: Visit hurtigruten.com (direct link to voyage page here)