Watch: I was nervous about visiting Florida as an LGBT+ traveller but this happened

When I started planning my summer getaway, I was reluctant to consider Florida. Putting aside the “Florida man” headlines and the prospect of alligators, what worried me ran much deeper. As an LGBTQ+ traveller, I had reservations about visiting the state that created the infamous ‘Don’t say gay’ education legislation, which outlaws any discussions on gender identity and sexual orientation.

Despite Florida’s openly anti-queer approach, lots of LGBTQ+ travellers like me still flock to places like Miami and Fort Lauderdale, which are known for being welcoming (and party-obsessed). But where do you go if you’re not the type for resorts, high rises, and lying on a beach all day and partying all night?

The answer to my plea was St Petersburg, a city that’s gone from being nicknamed “God’s waiting room” due to the octogenarian retiree population, to becoming the home of award-winning dining, international street art festivals, and a young, buzzing, LGBTQ+ community.

As luck would have it, I arrived on a Friday night, and was immediately thrown into the deep-end of St Pete’s kaleidoscopic nightlife. Unlike its sister city across the bay, Tampa, where khaki pants are the dress code year-round, St Pete immediately has a distinctive vibe unlike anywhere else I’ve been in Florida.

In downtown St Pete, Wild Child is serving its clientele delicious cocktails - no tequila shots served here; rather, masterfully prepared cocktails to espouse mouth-watering seafood crudo small plates.

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The energy is infectious as I walk downtown. There are no rowdy parties, or drunken men swaying from one sidewalk to the other. Instead, people are enjoying scoops of gelato in quaint street-side porches, there’s live music coming from open-front bars, and quirky shops glisten in the beautifully curated high street.

But the best is yet to come. I skip the gelato for now and head straight to my cosy and super central room at The Birchwood, as I prepare myself to eat like a king for a weekend.

How to spend an arts-filled foodie weekend in St Pete

St Pete’s tapestry of cultural venues and world-class museums is unrivalled in the Sunshine State. The Dalí Museum is the largest collection of Salvador Dali’s works outside of Europe, and it has a ‘Dalí 360’ immersive experience bringing surrealist artworks to life.

The stroll from The Dalí to St Pete Pier is one of the best to enjoy the waterside wonders. This dreamy spot is also where Perry’s Porch lies, a perfect stop for a filling lunch of blackened snapper sandwich with a gorgeous view.

I block off my entire afternoon to visit The James Museum of Western Art. You won’t find classic “Cowboys and Indians” stories here. The museum’s mission is to flip the script on those narratives, and challenge stereotypes with its collection informed by, and partly created by, Native artists across the States. Contemporary indigenous portraits sit alongside historical artifacts, every single work planting a seed of thought that will stay with you long after you leave the museum.

For fans of tactile art, The Chihuly Collection just a few blocks away is a treasure trove of glass art by the renowned American maker. Great legacy and contemporary artists coexist, with a space in the gallery dedicated to showcasing new work by local emerging talent, inspired by this magnificent collection.

From the Chihuly, you’re only a few blocks away from Japanese-inspired Fortu, a proud recipient of the Michelin accolade, serving delicacies from lobster dumpling, to miso black cod.

But my favourite experience is the Mural Walking Tour organised by Florida CraftArt. There’s no better way to tuck into the amazing arts scene in St Pete than seeing its murals up close, and learning how they came about. From lobster phones echoing the Dali museum, to dreamy pastel landscapes of the Gulf, the murals are distinctively local in subject - but proudly global in the making.

After this 2-hour tour, you’ll surely have worked an appetite, and will be ready for a tasting menu dinner at St Pete Distillery. In the expert hands of chef David Reyes, every mouth-watering dish is meticulously paired (and theatrically served) alongside stellar spirits coming from the distillery itself. It’s one worth sitting down for, not just for the unique bites but for the post-cocktail buzz that comes with it. Nothing beats doing a post-dinner tour of the distillery behind the scenes while holding a delicious cocktail.

Where to go for relaxation and more exploration

It’s worth venturing past St Pete’s downtown to sample more amazing food. The area made it to my bucket list in 2025, when it became the first in the Gulf region to be featured in the Michelin Guide. And it’s easy to see how it got the accolade: amazing fresh produce and a concentration of talented chefs have breathed new life into its dining scene.

A true hidden gem, Safety Harbor embodies how art and community go hand in hand in this area. Smaller than downtown St Pete, Safety Harbor’s cultural highlights are easily within reach of each other. Multicolour and quirky artist house Whimzeyland is an unmissable spot - the creative embodiment of “more is more”, and a fascinating upcycling project.

Saving the best for last, The Tides is the best lunch spot one can ask for. This seafood market turned into a family-run eatery ticks all the boxes: freshest produce, warm service, and truly unforgettable food. And it’s only a few blocks away from the four-year-running winner of the best cocktails in St Pete, a place so nice you have to go twice: 1920s prohibition bar-inspired Gigglewaters, where I sampled some of the best cocktails in my life.

After all the sightseeing and foodie adventures, some relaxation at one of St Pete’s award-winning beaches is much deserved. After a quick pick-me-up at Salty Pup, a vibrant cafe and community space led by husband couple Jeff and Jody, check yourself in at The Tradewinds resort for an afternoon of pampering. Or if, like me, you’re a bird aficionado, head to Seabird Sanctuary, an amazing local rehabilitation centre with its own stunning beach attached.

From sunny St Pete beach and downtown, to bohemian Gulfport, and colourful Safety Harbor, there isn’t a boring corner to be found in this corner of West Florida.

Factfile:

Where to stay: The Birchwood Hotel(St Petersburg) – Superior Room with Bathtub starting at £200 per night.

How to get there: Virgin Atlantic and British Airways operate non-stop flights to Tampa from London (Heathrow and Gatwick respectively) once a week.