While the majority of football fans in Portsmouth were eagerly anticipating England’s start to the World Cup, I visited a corner of Cosham where the focus was all on the Selecao das Quinas.
Cafe Prazeres has been open in the high street since 2018 where it has established itself as a hub for the Portuguese community in the city. Walking into the deli to watch Portugal’s game against DR Congo on Wednesday, June 17, I was met by a packed house of expectant fans hoping that this will be the year that Cristiano Ronaldo lifts the prestigious trophy aloft.
What followed was 90 minutes where I experienced the warmth and friendliness of Portuguese culture with the football being the only let down.
Janete and Pedro Bichinho took over the café three years ago and are one of a number of people from the island of Madeira who now call Portsmouth their home.
Janete said: “There is a big community here with lots of people from Madeira. We are very lucky as they like to come to Cafe Prazeres, they are comfortable with us and everybody is very friendly and kind. Maybe it is because that is what the Portuguese people are like!”
As Janete and Pedro served out Super Bock beers and delicious smelling bifanas, a crusty bread role filled with marinated pork, it was clear that everybody in the packed deli were regulars giving it a familial feel.
Alex Serrao, a private chef, has been in Portsmouth for 13 years and has frequented Cafe Prazeres since it opened. He is there so much that his wife jokes he spends more time there than with her.
He said: “I am here every morning for my coffee and pastel di nata. It is nice, it is like family. All my friends meet here, like English people will go to the pub, we meet here for a coffee. When I come here I always know I am going to find someone to have a chat with over a coffee. It is somewhere where you can just chill.”
That sentiment is echoed by Daniel De Freitas whose dad originally owned the deli before selling it to the Bichinhos. He still works at Cafe Prazeres five days a week but finds himself naturally drawn there in his spare time.
“I even come here on my days off,” said Daniel, “It just feels like family, everyone together, your own culture, your own spirit. We embrace everyone, we integrate together, it is one big family. Whether you are Portuguese, English or any nationality, everyone is together and it is nice.”
Alongside the numerous Ronaldo shirts being worn, there are also a number of England shirts with locals cheering on the team of the café whose warm and friendly service has made them feel part of the family.
Janete said: “We have a lot of English people that come in everyday and if we are open it is because of them, we are pleased to welcome everybody.”
Despite fervent chants in support of Portugal throughout the game, it ends up being a frustrating evening. An early goal from Joao Neves gave hope of a comfortable victory but with the last action of the first half, Newcastle’s Yoane Wissa headed in an equaliser to deflate the optimism in Cafe Prezares.
The second half had a false dawn with celebrations cut short after a Portugal goal was ruled offside but in the end it finished in a disappointing one all draw. Despite that, there was still optimism that the team can go all the way.
Janete said: “I think it is the last dance for Ronaldo and he deserves this. We are very confident that we are going to win.”
While Daniel added: “We still hope, hope is the last thing that will die.”
Whatever happens in the rest of the tournament, whether it is to celebrate or commiserate, Cafe Prezares will have its doors open.
9. Cafe Prazeres
Tension rises as Portugal chase a second goal against DR Congo on Wednesday, June 17. | Marcin Jedrysiak
12. Cafe Prazeres
Despite the promising start, DR Congo drew level with Yoane Wissa scoring just before half time. | Marcin Jedrysiak